Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
