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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.